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Depends what temp you mash at and how much body you are wanting from the FG. The British Ale yeasts are likely to finish at a higher FG leaving a bit more body to the beer. The 1272 will probably finish a little lower FG and so be a bit thinner, although you could mash at a higher temp to achieve the same FG with the 1272.
As the NEBrown is a reasonably low alcohol beer you may want the extra body from the Brit Ale yeasts even if you mash high?
Good point, based on this I think I'll pick up the British Ale.
Any preferences on 1098 vs 1335?
Thanks
I have used the 1335 in a southern brown and liked it. As a bonus if you bottle condition the yeast sits really hard on the bottom of the bottle making it easy to pour without yeast in the beer.
I have not tried the 1098.
Actually now that I think about it a NEB ale is more like 4-5% rather than the SEB at 3-4% so my comment about it being a lower alcohol beer is not so relevant. At 4-5% you should be able to get enough body from mash temperature to use whichever yeast you want. The 1272 would give you a pretty clean ferment - and is similar to what the Yeastie Boys will use for their PKB so if you have a wash sitting around do not be afraid to try it. You can always rebrew with Brit Ale yeast at some later stage?
I have cracked a couple of beers in the last few days where I used flaked barley in the grist. The interesting thing I have found is that the beers have an almost spritzer effect, if that is the right term. It also seems to lighten the beer rather than add body as way my intention. One has 10% and the other 4% and the effect reflects these amounts. I grabbed a bulk bag from a grain merchant so I had some to do a 10/20/70 guiness and now that I have noticed the effect with these other beers I am picking it in the guiness as well. It wasn't flaked as such but micronised, although it is supposed to behave the same when mashing. I am wondering if I have just over carbonated or if anyone else has experienced something similar.
I've used flaked barley in most of my brews and have never had that effect, although usually it has been between 1-2%. I haven't been able to find any in home brew stores in NZ though. Where can I get it?
Thanks for your reply on this. I suspect with the type I am using that even 2% is too much, I might try it again in something at 1% and might even back it off to 10 or 15% next time I do a dry stout. Go to page 228 to see my post about the supply there. I do grind it fine with a rotary burr grinder, which may account for the extra yield I get.
Huh. I've never ground it, just chucked it in as is. But I've never really known if it's made a difference or just been for good luck.
I got mine from brewers coop in Auckland
Thinking this - Grain bill fixed so just wanna suss out my hop bill.
84% Golden Promise
6% Pale Crystal
5% Vienna
5% Wheat.
I want to bitter with Sauvin and i want the flavours and aromas from the Cascade and Pacifica to come through. Ralph suggested equal ratios of these so i have as follows
15g Sauvin @ 60mins
10g NZ Cascade & 10g Pacifica @ 15mins, 10mins and 5mins
10g Pacifica and 5g Sauvin @ Flameout.
IBU's comes out as 40 IBU for Kiwi Pale Ale
Thought the Sauvin at flame out might carry through it's character but not sure it's enough. I think there is a lot of late additions so may not need to dry hop. Does it look ok??
Cheers for that. I will take your advice and add a dry hop. 10g of Cascade and 15g of Pacifica. OG is estimated at 1.053 which gives it a IBU/SG ratio of 0.749. Thanks
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