Probably pointing out the obvious but 1 kW = 1000 W(atts) so they would draw between 2 and 3 kW (not 2000kW :) )
You have to remember that although the element is rated to 2.4kW it could theoretically draw more current. I am looking at placing an inline 25A SSR to handle the load. Any sparkies (or Sparky) out there want to confirm.
3000 watts (3 kW) divided by 230 V = 13 Amps. As James says, best to protect your 10A temp controller with an SSR. You can get one like this from jaycar for about $11.
Then again if you really want to draw 3000 KW, you may need to invest in a substation...... ;-)
Nick, is that SSR a 12V controller (input) load as opposed to a 220V~240V controller (input) load? Can not see specs for the controller thus I am assuming the 12v DC is the controller load.
Ah you are right, the SSR is for a12V input - looking at the specs for the temp controller it has effectively a 220V output - often you get different versions of the same controller, some have a 'SSR' output, which is the 12V you need. Hmm, need to find a SSR that takes a 220 - 240V input I guess..... like the one you have suggested, or Jaycar cat number SY4041 seems to have a 240V option too.
As an aside, I was so paranoid about the consequences of running a 4 KW element on an SSR if the SSR failed in a closed circuit position that I have put one SSR on each of the phase and neutral leads. Some people do this but most say it is overkill..
(anyone who is actually qualified to talk on this subject please jump in, we are blind leading blind...... James is a programmer, I deal with dirt for a living, and Toot wants to blackout his neighbourhood so he can boil/vaporise 40 litres of water........)
Toot, there maybe a wattage stamped on the element somewhere. As a rule of thumb allow 5A per kw (1000 watts). Not everyone gets their supply at 230 volts exactly so you maybe a little + or - 5A depending on load and the time of day. SSRs are wonderful devices and I use them here. The Temp controllers discussed are suitable for heating sparge water or fermentation via a relay or SSR, however I wouldn't recommend this type of controller for wort boiling. Think of the boil as a corner on the highway and then consider how you maintain the steering wheel to stay on the road. It's gradual with very small corrections. If you use an off/on controller, it's the same as swinging the steering wheel to go off and then back on to the road. I use a 3kW electric low density element for my boiler and I've got an Industrial type controller pulsing the SSRs to maintain the boil.Hope this makes some sense. If not apologies as has been Brew-a-rama day here today & now have 2 fermenters busy & bubbling.