Setting up a chest freezer...

[Adrian Tayler]

Does anyone have any idea why my chest freezer works fine when it is plugged in directly to the mains but will not work when the power is intercepted by a temp controller?

a. the temp controller, controls heating and cooling (has been used to power 1200W elements)

b. other applicances work when connected..

Someone mentioned that you have to bypass the thermoatstat on the freezer and controll the compressor with the TC ??

Help please?

cheers, Adrian.

[Nick T]

Actually, before you leap into it, it may pay to check what model controller you have. It is possible that you have the 'switching' model and not the 'ssr' model. I was looking at your specs again, and got confused as it looks like for AC output you also use the same ports as the DC ssr outputs (?), which made me wonder if the controller you have is not dual purpose. If you do have the AC out model and not an SSR model, I think what you would need to do is hook the AC output up to a little transformer which in turns connects to the SSR. (Sorry if I have confused you, the controller I have is an SSR output type.) What is the model number on the controller?

Or you could get a Tempmate...... ;-)

[Adrian Tayler]

Thanks Nick,

Thats does make a little sense, and I have the know how to make the adjustments... but I still cant get my head around the frezzer being warm (turned off for a month or so) so no matter what the source of power to the freezer, buy its own standard it is not cold enough and should swtich on...

I can understand that when the freezer is at operating temp there would be thermostat conflicts.

[Dale]

Same I have a home made heating and cooling connected to my fridge and have not bypassed the thermostat and have not had a problem with the fridge turning on. I do have the thermostat set on the fridge so it cools lower than what i'm trying to ferment at. That way works for me.

[Nick T]

I found that without bypssing the fridge thermostat, when I wanted to crash cool to say 0-2 degrees with the probe measuring the fermenter temp, the fridge thermostat (which measures the fridge air temp, which will be generally much lower than your fermenter temp while you are cooling the brew down) would cut out way way too high - I was wondering why after 2 days of really slow cooling the fermenter was still sitting at about 8 degrees - after I did the bypass the fridge stayed on full time until the fermenter temp was down to target, it was way quicker. If however you are only using the fridge for fermentation temperatures and not for crash cooling (ie for fining etc) then you probably can get by without a bypass. Still doesn't explain why your freezer doesn't work, though...??

[Adrian Tayler]

I have the sr35, the exact one in the spec sheet.. should be okay? it does strike me as being odd that AC and DC would run through the same terminals, but in saying that, the two terminals are the two swithing terminals, not the control or feed terminal. ??

[Nick T]

There should also be a string of code letters/numbers attached to it, something like SR35-12Y-00-312-JKC or something like that? perhaps on the box or on a sticker on the module?Corresponds to the codes on sheet 2 of the spec. You need a P model for the SSR output, I suspect now you have a Y model (AC output).

PM me if you like, the discussion is probably getting a bit too detailed for the forum!

[Adrian Tayler]

Just to keep you guys updated, I wired the freezer up direct to the wall with the exception of the phase wire which I ran through my SSR (250V 40A)... (the SSR was switching on an off perfectly - thanks Nick)

The freezer did not start up but the compressor was clicking as if it was trying to.. my suspicion is that there is not enough current getting to the compressor for the initial start up.. I have just bought some heavier duty wire and proper connections to see it that is the issue... If that doesnt work, I will donate it to the Twilight Zone.. stay tuned.

[Adrian Tayler]

And here it is.. working:

it seems that tapping the P & N from the TC was the problem.. I have real power (N & E) going direct to the Freezer and the real phase going through pin 8 & 9..

thanks for your assistance guys..

AT.

[Nick T]

hey Adrian, glad to hear that you are not fried! And your freezer is up and running too!

[Adrian Tayler]

Thanks Nick... Now it just needs a collar.... :-)

[Adrian Tayler]

Finally got the collar on... she holds 5 kegs or two primarys.

[Reviled]

Looking good Adrian, now ya just need a few more taps ;o)