See attached Info sheet.
I've not tried it yet, so can't comment.
It is likely your beers have a protin haze rather than a yeast one. Are you kttle fining? How clear is "clear when leaving the kettle"? A good clear beer for me is about as clear leaving the kettle as it would be in the glass.
I dunno, I've never inspected it that much, just taken a small sample, and thought that it doesn't have hella-haze, and thought all would be good. Maybe next time I should pour a full pint into a glass and check that? Would be more comparable to what I get in the glass I guess.
I'm using koppafloc, recirculated chilling with a plate-chiller and letting it sit in the kettle for 30 - 60 mins after whirlpool before transferring to fermenter. My pick up tube is off to the side so I'm not picking up much, if any, trub, unless I get greedy near the end :-P
I get quite a lot of trub in the fermenter 'cos I'm so stingey - cold break isn't the problem for causing hazy beer. Isinglass wont drop out protein either... maybe you should check out your mash pH? Are your dark beers clear and your pale ones hazy?
Not to be anal - or anything... but I still have half a jar of pH 5.2. I stopped using it about 18 months ago. I can get clearer beer without it... and better mashes too.
I hope that doesn't put the wind up you mate!?!? Sorry?!?!?!
All good though - it was good for me at the time. But to disclaim... I dont know your system, so couldn't possibly make an accurate comment - but here's a tidbit: If Isinglass is not making your beer clear, the haze isn't from the yeast - especially if you are using it correctly.
Bit of a bugger realy because from what you say, your beer should be clear as bro.
Maybe add a bit of calcium into your mash and sparge water. My favourite is Sulphate... half a teaspoon in each (mash and sparge) in Pale Ales, and Chloride... quater a teaspoon for lagers in each. With Dark beers, my water don't need any treatment.
How's that being anal? Haha, but some interesting info there.
I'm gonna give isinglass another shot on this bitter I have with the new ratio I found and measure with my heroin scales.
If that doesn't work I'm gonna look at my mash water, which I've been thinking of doing anyway. Know any good sources of pH papers locally? I know the digi meters are the better option but not really keen on investing in one at the mo.
Are you adjusting your water on all your beers? Other than thee 5.2 I'd rather not have to add another variable into my beers at the moment haha. Maybe I should just go back to using a tsp of gypsum in all my beers. Or just add nothing at all and wait til I start having problems.
I acidify with tartaric acid now. If it's good enough for Steve Nally, with 4 best in classes in the last two BrewNZ's, it's good enough for me. I'll try some CaSO4 again soon as I'm going to have a crack at a Burton IPA.
I've read that the mash itself has pretty good buffering capabilities, if I can get something cheapish to measure pH, be papers or digital, I think I'll just check the pH on a light beer and a dark beer. If either is out I'll adjust accordingly and leave it at that for those types of beers, and wait till I'm a little further to get more indepth with water chemistry.