Dry hopping in stages

[Rob Thomas]

I've usually brewed in blind faith, not really looking too hard at any of the techniques I use unless the beer starts tasting weird. Well that's just what's happened. And I think I know why- I brewed any epic PA clone and dry hopped with 100g for seven days. It tastes like someone mowed the lawns and used my fermenter as a compost bin. From experience I know that if I had broken this up into 2 additions of 50g for 5 or less days each it probably would have been ok. This got me wondering. Why is that? And why do some recipes call for 1 type of hop added first followed by other hops? A good example of what I'm talking about is Richard Deeble's famous NZPA. http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profiles/blogs/brewing-a-good-nz-pa... Why not add all the dry hops at once for 5 days?

So in summary:
- why dry hop in stages?
- what hops should be used when in your dry hopping regime? Why?

[Peter Smith]

I am tempted to split across 1272 and wl007 but the 007 would probably need a lower mash, the 1272 finishes low would dry it out well, in the past my US 05 has finished more 1.014-15 ish but 1272 can get to 10 no problem, start cold at 16C and ramp up to 21C to grind it out.

[Steve Hinton]

Yeah I used brewshop for my grain bill and they didn't have wyeast so made the Dutch call to go with white labs instead to save the extra courier fee! Lol