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Thought it might be handy to have a thread for some of the more advanced brewers to give some advice on recipes.

Let's see how it goes eh...

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It's fine to to add it at any time.  Just make sure that you cool it down close to fermentation temp before adding it to the fermenter. Fermentation temp +/- 5C will be fine.

Cheers for that. It's all been added now. Nice aroma coming out of the fermenter. Interesting to taste and smell the bitter orange peel liquid without any other ingredients to mask it. I'll be curious how much i can taste/smell at tasting time.

Planning on brewing this guy on Saturday, get to christen the new Cooler-tun! looking for some tips to improve the hopping schedule :)

"Post-boil 1min" = 0min / flameout addition

Cheers

malt & fermentables

% KG MALT OR FERMENTABLE YIELD EBC
92% 6.000 Gladfield Ale Malt (NZ) 78% 6 ~
8% 0.500 Pale Crystal (Thomas Fawcett) 73% 74 ~
6.5
Original Gravity
1.051 12.6° Plato
(1.045 to 1.053)
Final Gravity
1.013 3.3° Plato
(1.011 to 1.014)
Color
18° EBC 9° SRM
(Gold to Copper)
Mash Efficiency
70%

hops

USE TIME GRAMS VARIETY FORM AA
boil 60 mins 10 Nelson Sauvin pellet 12.2
boil 15 mins 30 Nelson Sauvin pellet 12.2
boil 15 mins 15 Pacific Jade pellet 13.5
post-boil 1 min 30 Nelson Sauvin pellet 12.2
post-boil 1 min 15 Pacific Jade pellet 13.5
dry hop 7 days 30 Nelson Sauvin pellet 12.2
dry hop 7 days 30 Pacific Jade pellet 13.5
Bitterness
40.6 IBU 4 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
BU:GU
0.80

yeast

Wyeast American Ale II (1272)
ale yeast in liquid form with high flocculation and 74% attenuation
Alcohol
5.1% ABV 4% ABW
Calories
158 per 1/3 Liter

did you do this recipe on hopville? i have used it on all my brews to date and found that the bitterness calculations can be a little out usually i thought it was understating bitterness, so i was adding too much early in boil.

i brewed the same recipe a few times and only then got the bitterness where i wanted it

Hey Chad, yea I use hopville for all of my recipes at the moment. Tried out BeerSmith and BeerAlchemy but didn't really like either of them. Also like being able to play with the recipes at home/work :)

I've found the bitterness calculations to be pretty good using Tinseth. Are you adjusting your Boil volume and adjusting the hop alpha acids? If you're in metric the default boil volume is about 15L, but if you're doing a full boil it would be more like an average of 30L - 35L for a 90min boil. This adds a bucketload more IBU's to the calculations. 

im doing 60min boils and generally aiming for 45L batches, i only seem to lose about 20L in evaporation/hop trub/grain absorbtion so i guess my total liquor is about 65L. i get a good rolling boil going with obvious protein break foam ups etc, as i typed this reply i did a recalculus in hopville and it would seem that ive had the boil volume set a bit low probably adding 10 ibu to a 22ish ibu brew that i did

Sweet. Yea I'd say it'd be best to set it to at least 50L avg boil volume for the calcs. There may be better IBU curve's to use at the larger boil sizes, I'm not too sure. Tinseth seems to really plateau out over about 40L boil volume. For a 23L batch I set it to 32L for 90min boil :) 

Any idea how many gravity points I'll get from dumping a kilo of peach pulp in my next brew?

I can tell you that peaches are about 8% fermentables by weight, if that helps

Would have to agree with Richard, I added about 1.5 - 2kg of puree'd plums to a saison I brewed recently and calculated wayyyy too high. Numbers came out much lower. I probably got only 3-5 gravity points from the fruit.

In these styles of beer I have trouble going past Fuggles (NZ Fuggles if you can find them)... they are not a high AA hop so you end up using a fair amount to get the bitterness you want.

 

Have you used Amber Ale malts before...?  I wasn't happy with the flavour profile of that malt in my lighter ales (Bitter or Amber ales).

I have done the same beer with both and much prefer the fuggles. Both are still my best beers though.

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