Going partial mash or all grain - help required

[Martin Bridges]

Hi folks,

After 3.5 successful extract-based batches (batch #4 is in the fermenter at the minute so I daren't claim it as fully successful yet!) I'm thinking that it will soon be time for The Next Step. I suspect it will be partial mash as I don't really (yet) have room for a pot big enough to boil a full batch volume. However, I intend to get to all-grain within the next few months.

I've done a fair bit of reading (How To Brew, numerous websites) and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed in terms of information on how to build the necessary equipment, more specifically a mash/lauter tun. A converted chilly bin seems to be the answer but I'm drowning in descriptions of manifolds, braided hoses, false bottoms and ball valves.

My budget is limited, but so are my DIY skills. Can anyone point me to a simple guide (or provide same themselves) with idiot-proof instructions along the lines of "go to this store, buy these items, cut this here, shove that pointy bit in there" etc.?

Many thanks,

Martin

[jt]

Limited budget ?

If you've got a big pot - 12 litres plus - then all you need is a kettle and a mash tun - plus a few bits.

Heat mash and sparge water in the big pot on the stove

Buy a couple of 20 or 25 litre buckets and do the bucket in bucket mash tun, insulate with camping mats
Tap and some tube to run off to kettle - I use an an autosyphon so I don't suck hot wort !

Kettle ? I picked up a 28 litre still base cheap, popped in a 2300W element, boils the sh1te out of 23 litres
Probably cost $100 all up

Don't chill, save the money on copper and No Chill like Barry

[Greig McGill]

Mash tun: I use a chillybin, with a simple bulkhead type fitting where the drainage hole used to be. On the inside, I fit a bit of braided hose, and on the outside, a simple ball valve tap. It works an absolute treat. I'd never go back to the old bucket-in-bucket system, as I had way too many overflows trying to make bigger beers.

My kettle is just a big f**k-off pot, and a three ring gas burner.

I'll describe it to you in more detail at the Ellerslie festival! ;)

[Doublehoppy]

I've always used the bucket-in-bucket system but am now looking to use a converted chillybin. Was planning on building a 20mm copper manifold like this http://www.18000feet.com/coolbox/cool_box_mash_tun.htm

The copper bits cost about $80 from a plumbers supply. Don't mind the cost as the chilly bin is a freeby.

My question is is it necessary to make the manifold this big? How does it compare efficiency wise to the bit of braided hose? And how much hose do you use?

Another question - My chillybin is a rectangular Rubbermaid 44L. Is this too big for 23L batches? Just a bit worried about ending up with a shallow grain bed

[Greig McGill]

There are always ways to improve efficiency, but I'm in a "working with what I have" mode at the moment, not changing things and just trying to get consistent results, which I think I'm succeeding at.

My Chillybin is 40L, and I've not had any problems yet with too shallow a grain bed, even on low gravity bitters. Actually, come to think of it, I do have a slight grainy astringency in most of my low gravity beers, and that might be the cause. I hadn't given it a lot of thought, as I generally brew for myself rather than competitions, and I quite like that taste, it's like chewing on fresh malted barley! :)

The same is true of the hose braid. The more you have, the more efficient you will be (I think, my fluid dynamics is not strong - feel free to correct me, but I assume more surface area == better), but my system works well with just one piece, running slightly less than the length of the base of the chillybin.

[denimglen]

I made a manifold from about 1/2" ID copper that we had lying around. The fittings were freaking expensive, I wouldn't have bothered if I didn't have the pipe.

I made four rows, the outer two about about 25mm from the wall of the chilly bin (I have the same bin as you). Efficiency wise I didn't see that much of an increase. I got little because of the deadspaceI had with the braid, I have about 1800mL of deadspace in the kettle and was losing quite a bit of efficiency because of the total deadspace.

Here's a little about it: Blog

I do 21L batches and don't think the grainbed is too shallow.

BTW my BH eff is about 80.

[Doublehoppy]

Thanks guys. I'm going to go ahead with the 44L chillybin. And what the hell I'm going to make a copper manifold for it. I found the pvc piping in the plumbing section of master trade after all, and it's about 40% cheaper so would be about $50 for pvc or $80 copper.

[Doublehoppy]

Nice photos in your blog deminglen. Always interesting to see other breweries. Particularly interested in your use of the Polysterenenenenene cover within the mash tun.

[denimglen]

I can't take credit for that, was a member on homebrewtalk who thought of it.

Just a piece of of wall insulation cut to shape with a craft knife, a couple of holes poked with a pen and the zipties to pull it out.

Works great, I would highly recommend it to anyone with rectangular tun. I used to loose about 5C (60 min mash) without it, now my temp doesn't drop at all.

[Doublehoppy]

Right, I've constructed the copper manifold. Slightly flared the pipe ends so they fit snuggly into the tees and elbows, but can still be pulled apart for easy cleaning. Just need to drill the holes.

What size holes?

Or do hacksaw cuts work better?

[denimglen]

I went with holes in mine - I was after minimal dead space.

My holes were about 1.5mm.

[Doublehoppy]

Thanks denim. Have done likewise.

I've placed a couple of plastic chopping boards under the manifold. These have dramatically reduced the volume of dead space to something reasonable (from 2.8 litres to .8 litre) and also align the manifold to the tap hole

[denimglen]

Great idea on the chopping boards.

Hope it works out well for you.