Muntons Gold range

[Craig]

I just finished a Muntons Gold Continental lager. This is the first brew i have made in the 20years i have been doing it, that I haven't put sugar in the fermentation process. I put the same amount of priming sugar I alway put in my brews, which always turn out fine. However this one didnt it was completely flat. Has anyone else had this problem with the gold range?

[Craig]

Would you be able to tell me what you use with your beer kits? Malt, dextrose, spraymalt ect

[James P]

Just to augment Joking's post here is the specification sheet from the fermentis website (manufacturer).

Unless you want to go for a more english ale, then S04 may provide you with want you want.

[MrC]

Sounds like your fermentation wasn't quite right. I'd say either your yeast was below par to start with or that it sufferred some distress during fermentation. Does the beer taste OK apart from the carbonation?

What was the fermentation temp like? Fluctuating temperatures and/or temperatures outside of the temp tolerance range for the yeast (usually around 15-25 deg for ale yeasts) can easily stress the yeast and cause problems with your beer. Fermenting toward the lower end of the yeast's temp range will give a cleaner, less estery beer whereas fermenting toward upper end of the yeast's temp range will give more fruity esters. I usually aim for the lower end of the temp range because that's what I like ☺

The yeast that comes with a kit is usually of an unknown quality due to the handling. I've been brewing a lot of kits lately and it is always best to throw away the yeast that comes with the kit. Some might be OK but you just never know. I always buy yeast separately and currently in NZ there are only 2 dried yeasts that I would recommend for Ales, Safale S-04 and Safale US-05. I know I compain about them from time to time but the fact is that they are the best dried yeast available here.

What kits do I use and what is my process?

I use Macs Kits because I've used them a lot and I know what to expect from them. Macs kits are "all malt" and do not require any additional sugar or malt (apart from priming). NOTE: One Macs kit makes 11.5L so yo need two kits for a standard 19-23L batch.

I have also used a standard Brewcraft kit and added a can of muntons liquid malt extract (LME) in place of the 1kg of sugar. The result was similar.

I find that all kits have a "kit character" and that it is always best to add additional malt & hops to add freshness & flavour that will make a decent beer and mask any off flavours.


Here's my process for what I think is a decent kit beer with additional malt & hops. I've been told it's Monteiths Black'ish ☻

Ingredients:
2 x Macs Pale Ale kits

200g Crystal Malt (60L)
200g Chocolate Malt

25g NZ Cascade Hop Pellets

1 x packet US-05 (or S-04)


[The night before brewday]
Step 1:
Boil 10L water and leave to cool overnight.

[Brewday]
Step 2:
Add all previously boiled (10L) water to fermenter.
Add all crushed grain to steeping bag.
Steep grain in 3L water at 70 deg for 30 min.
Dunk & swirl during steep.
Let the grain bag drain for a couple of minutes after steeping, do not squeeze.

Step 3:
Prepare for yeast hydration while the grain is steeping.
Boil approx 1/3 cup water, cover with glad wrap & leave to cool.

Step 4:
Add water to bring volume to 13L.
Add kits.
Bring to boil.
Add hops & turn off heat.
Put the pot in a bath of cold water & leave to cool until 18 deg.

Step 5:
Rehydtrate the yeast.
Once the yeast rehydration water has cooled to roughly room temp add the yeast, swirl gently & leave.
Swirl occasionally while waiting for wort to cool.

Step 6:
Add cooled wort to fermenter (volume now approx 23L)
Add rehydrated yeast to fermenter
Oxygenate wort. Seal fermenter and shake like hell.
Fit airlock and leave to ferment to 18 deg.

Step 7:
Leave it alone for two weeks at a constant temp of 17-19 deg.

Step 8:
Prime with dextrose at a rate of 4.5g/L

Step 9:
Leave it for at least one week, preferably two, at room temp.

Step 10:
Chill it & drink it

[Craig]

Thanks for all that it was a great help

[Craig]

I tend to get that after taste a lot so I think I might reduce the heat to 18c. I did have it at 22c.
What do you think of the brew enhancers you can get now. Mixture of dextrose/ malt sugars and hops?

[MrC]

I've never used them, I'd rather have fresh ingredients. I never heard anything good about them.

[JoKing]

There's nothing wrong with them, if that is what you are into. It sounds to me that you are after a bit of an improvement in flavour - and I doubt that the enhancer will give you what you are after, which would probably disappoint you... especially for the amount of extra money they cost.

I see that you are from southland - you should check out the Dunedin Malthouse for ingredients. Dennis will be able to help you upgrade your process with minimal cost. Have a look at www.dunedinmalthouse.co.nz for his "mini mash" process - which is very similar to Mr Cherrys Steep and kit process. Actually - Mr Cherrys "Kit and Steep" is exactly what you would want to do to improve your beer, without venturing too far into the unkown... and spending too much money.

All you need is a grain bag to soak the specialty malts with, and a big stock pot to boil with hops into the wort with.

[MrC]

Grain bag from LHBS - $18
19L SSPot from The Warehouse - $20
Good beer - priceless :-)

[Craig]

Hi
In one of our discussions you said about all I need is a grain bag from LHBS and a pot for a mini mash. Can you tell me where LHBS is? what is it?
what is the best way to heat the grains to 68c mark steady?
Do you have any good mini mash recipies I can look at?
Any help would be appreciated as I am new to using grains.
Because you are still using a beer kit in the mini mash recipes, why is there a difference? I thought the malt from the beer kit would be the dominant taste? What makes the Mimi mash better?
Thanks

[MrC]

LHBS = Local Home Brew Store

I don't do a mini mash with my kit based beers, I just steep grain. It's not technically mashing, just steeping.

I steep the grain in approx 3L of water for 30min at approx 70deg
Remove grain and bring to boil
Flame off, add kit & stir untill extract dissolved
Bring to boil again
Flame off
Add hops
Cool
Add to fermenter with preboiled water to desired volume

Here is the recipe for the beer that went in the last case swap
Here is the feedback from the other brewers in the case swap

NOTE: The recipe here is for a 11.5L batch using one Macs kit. If you are brewing a 23L batch you will need to double the grain and hop volumes. If you're not using Macs kits you will need 1 kit and 1 can of pale extract to make a 23L batch.
(2x Macs kits = 1 x other kit plus one can of extract.)


When I brew with kits I go for the lightest kit available and add my own grain to achieve the style of beer that I'm after. Fresh grain flavour is a lot better than the flavours out of the can. Also, fresh hops and fresh malt help to disguise that "kit character" that you get from kit beers.

The problem with this approach is that you don't get to control the bitterness. If you want more bitterness you will need to boil a specific amount of hops for a specific amount of time. At that point you might as move away from kits and use plain malt extract with a 60 min boil (re. www.howtobrew.com).

[Craig]

Thanks so much for all that info it will help so much. Can you tell me where I can get a grain bag (filter bag) from?

[MrC]

I see that your in Southland, are there any home brew shops down there?
How far away is Dunedin Malthouse?

You can always use something like a clean cotton bag or pillowcase. I used a linen cloth once. The wort will be boiled afterwards so you don't need to worry about bacteria.