The Grain Father

[Peter Smith]

http://www.grainfather.com/

Mangrove Jacks new all grain unit - its nice

[Mark Weusten]

Hey on the excessive trub note, what do you reckon about plumbing in a hoprocket or similiar device into the discharge pipe? This would of course mean you would need the pump on during the boil......

[John H]

Hi Mark

I have previously only had experience with BIAB so I would defer to the old hands for definitive feedback on sparge times. My 15L sparge took around 20-25minutes using a temperature controlled urn. I kept the water level10-20mm of head which I understand is the correct way to go. No stuck sparge and I used Brewers Coop crushed grain.

My understanding is that if you put too much water on top you could compact the grain bed so you don't want to go too much faster.

I did notice about a 40min rise time from Mash out to boil. It was not really an issue to me as I cranked up the element when you start the sparge. By the time the sparge is finished and the grain is cleared up the boil has started so the slower ramp time is irrelevant to me.

Speaking of step times - the 2KW element was an initial concern, but it proved comparable to my previous BIAB experience using a 4 ring gas burner.(i.e. the step times overall took around the same time) but was a lot less fuss with the GF.

I realise it is not very scientific comparison as BIAB full volume requires more energy for the steps, and with the GF you are heating less water or heating sparge water while you are doing the mash (so not adding time onto the brew) so it is more of an overall comparison if that makes sense. This is what I experienced:

33minutes  16L - 15-67Deg C (Mash temp)

7minutes 67-75 (Mash out)

41minutes 25.5L - 75-100 (Boil)

I recorded 4hours between adding the initial cold water to the chiller being connected. This included quite a bit of time resolving leaks etc, and does not include the cool / clean which didn't take that long (Didn't record times as I got delayed with kids lunch etc before I finished up). so I would guess that 4.5h is easily achievable for a batch from whoa to go(60min boil)

[David M]

Hi, just received my GF yesterday.

I am beginner brewer (only a couple of so-so extracts under my belt - but hooked) and decided to get straight into all-grain after seeing the GF and getting good feedback from Peter Smith, the guys at Brewers Coop and reading this forum.

I set it up last night, tested a few things and cleaned it but won't get to brew until the weekend.
The product seems pretty good and am glad I decided to jump in the deep end. There are a couple of things I find awkward about it.

The O-rings and threads can be a bit fiddly but all working well and no leaks.

The chiller is not very stable on top. Slippery plastic feet on smooth glass lid means it slides around easily and is only anchored by the wort in hose. I might add some felt to the feet and see if its stays in place better.

Also the tap adapters for the water in on the chiller are fixed so you have to twist the hose as you tighten it onto the tap. Not sure where to look but does anyone know where you can get a threaded adapter to use on the hose where the collar rotates without the hose being twisted?

John H - I am looking at getting one of the cheap urns from GTMall that I saw you comment on earlier. For the price I don't have huge expectations. Am just hoping it will be better than a 2L kettle or a pot on the stove for heating sparge water. Can't afford a better spec urn at the moment and keep the mrs happy after buying the GF. Are they ok and usable or are they a waste of money? How good is the temp control? 

Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[Taubin]

If you do find an adapter for the chiller, please post it here. That's the one major thing I've struggled with using mine. 

[John H]

Me too. I removed the hose, threaded the fitting into the tap then refitted the hose in the end. If it is too tight dip it into a warm kettle for a few seconds.

[John H]

GTMall urn - mmm - on the positive it has a black base and stainless top so it "matches" the GF.(Sorry - a bit of a wife comment)

More positives were the price and it heats water.

The thermostat was diabolical - I replaced it with a digital  STC1000. I wouldn't call the original thermostat a thermostat. Build quality was really average and it is pretty thin/flimsy. Makes a cool "thunk" noise when you fill it as it flexes.

It works for me as a HLT but I don't think it is a very good unit.

Has anyone else tried other TM sold urns?

[Peter Smith]

I have a grab one urn, crappy build but it works and was $108 for 38L advertised as 48L

May just turn it into a Grainfather clone yet.

[Mark Weusten]

Re the TM urn as you said John. I use my thermometer and stuff around with the dial to get it right

[David M]

Thanks for the feedback - if it heats water hot enough and doesn't leak, explode or electrocute then it will do what I want until I find (can afford) a better solution. Only going to be used 1-2 times a month.

I will use an external thermometer to read temp so was more concerned with the consistency of the thermostat than it's accuracy. Does it hold a constant temp or does it bounce around the place.

How do you use the STC 1000 temp sensor with it. I have a couple I use for my fermenter fridges. Do you use a thermo well or just tape it on the side of the urn like with a fermenter? I assume you can't put the STC temp sensor straight into the water

[John H]

The mechanical thermostat was strapped to the bottom of the urn so there is a long lag before it senses the water temperature. I was getting a 10Dec C deadband in water temp, and a varying setpoint.

STC - well it is a waterproof-ish temp probe (plastic bead)  that is immersed. Thermowell would be the more pro way of doing it.

[clinton james anstis]

I found a non slip mat that used to sit under my wifes sewing machine with a hole cut in the middle works well,no more chiller skating.I have just got a 6 litre urn off trademe and works well,just have to top up and reboil between sparging.There seems to be plenty of time for this.Finding beersmith really helpful as I also am new to all grain brewing,cheers.

[David M]

Hi found a solution to the chiller hose swivel and will test it tonight or tomorrow.

It is using a couple of brass connectors to put a swivel in the hose line close to the connector.

It appeared to hard to find a connector adapter that swivels and this way you can use any of the connections that come with the GF.

Needed 2 pieces - a 10mm barb female thread collar and a 10mm barb with inbuilt swivel and male thread connector. Approx $26 from Blackwoods Paykel - part # O3579208 and O3562008.

I am going to cut the water in hose 8-10cm from the connector and install the swivel fittings using some thread tape to get a good seal between the fittings.

Although the fittings are brass and not stainless I don't see any problems as it is just the water recirc and the fittings for that on the chiller are brass anyway.

Will let you know how I go.

Good idea on the slip mat Clinton. Might try that if my felt feet fail me.