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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f85/biab-recirculating-rig-first-brew-2...

I've been doing alot of research in the downtime not brewing. (It's been 3 months sicne an actual brew day). I've ahd an ongoing Shoulder issue for awhile, and am post op surgery for about 6 weeks.

So I've been working on alot of different project for my "Brewery". I have a small garage, which I have installed power into, properly, running underground cables etc. I will be going live on the weekend, with switches, lights and plug sockets in the garage.

I have 2 fridges already for fermentation and conditioning, both with STC-1000's fitted.

So, I've finally made a decision, which I think is a pretty good one. As it will give me room to expand/add vessels, should I need or want to.

The link is something similar, and wondered if anyone has had any experience building such a system?
If so, parts list and sourcing would be helpful, in this country anyways.

Will be sourcing a new Pot as well. I'd love a Blichmann, but it's just too expensive at this stage I think, unless someones got them in good condition. a 15 gallon one would be good, for those big beers.

I'll be doing 23 Litre batches, and wanted to know what sized element would give a good rolling boil? not too vigorous, but solid. I'll need a re-circulation pump, and disconnects. 

the other big issue is lifting the bag out etc.  I have purchased a pulley system, but need to install it, and I'd like to run it on a slider type system. to lift the grain slide out and dump in a bucket or the bin etc. any suggestions for this?

I was thinking a square steel bar, about 2m long, steel on steel with no runners... to slide, attached to the struts of the garage. 

And lastly the bag, I have something that works currently, although it's not fantastic, because theres no real way to lift it out. Suggestions required for where I can get a good bag with handles for pulley lifting, if anyone has a design, that'd be good too.  I was actually think of putting a Zip in one for grain removal as well.Steel of course.

any help is appreciated. thanks guys.

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Pump I had at the time was doing about 7 or 8 L per min. Doing with full boil volume and just lift the bag out at the end. The bag on the pulley drains even once the pot starts boiling. The mash efficiency is good (between 80% and 90% depending on what beer), and I did not really notice a significant increase in mash efficiency, but I have not been brewing the same beers and so cant say for certain. With the bag hanging to drain the mash grains end up reasonably dry.

Zane, you don't have any links to the pump do you?

Also, I have a Pulley system, its a real basic one, so like you say it might be worth getting a double pulley. any ideas where you sourced yours from? 

Nice pulleys and gear at Boat http://www.boatshop.co.nz/ It is near where I work so I rocked up and grabbed some pulleys and rope grabs.

Pump off Aussie ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&isRelated=...

I have not yet plumbed the pump in as I have been too busy. Chris who comes along to the club meetings has one and apparently it works really well.

Iwaki or march pumps can handle both very hot liquids and are food safe, I think they use a magnetic drive coupling so the liquid is kept away from the drive mechanism

If you watch trade me you can sometimes pick up small ones,   just be careful what has been through them as the small ones used to be used in film processing systems!  They are popular with marine fish keepers as they are salt safe.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/food-beverage/other-beverages/...

that one would be way to big to be a recirculation pump, more of a transfer pump

Yeah Chris came by work today and picked up some ducting. Saw that pump at the collab on Saturday. Didn't pay a lot of attention to it. But it seems solid. I've read a bit about those March pumps. They seem like the most common one. The boat guys. Are they pretty knowledgable? Help me setup the pulley and slider system.

The boat guys are pretty knowledgeable about boats... but could probably help you set something up. I would think they would have sliders for on boats that would work for what you want. You can always give them a call and have a chat before heading over to see if they think they can work something out?

This is the replacement pot I'm looking at. http://allgrain.co.nz/product_info.php?cPath=14_15&products_id=... If I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right, and not skimp on the costs of pots etc.  Blichmann is a tad too expensive, which is a shame, as they're pretty good quality.

Cory's and Ideal Generally have ULWD Elements for sale, I'd be looking at 3kW for boiling, in theory it should hold it. and an additional 1.5kW for Bring to temp a bit quicker.

For those who do Re-circ BIAB, do you have a false bottom?

that's a pretty well priced pot,

I don't use a false bottom but have been meaning to get a bazooka screen thing as I use a plate chiller and sometimes it can block up a wee bit with trub circulating

No false bottom. Just put the recirc back inside the bag, and take the pot exit from outside the bag. The bag acts as the screen to stop the grains getting through. You may need something to keep the bag away from the exit hole so it does not plug it...

a subjective question, but,  do you notice a difference in the clarity of the wort between biab recirc vs just biab system? 

No, no difference in clarity noted. However I am not really that worried about clarity of wort as it tends to clear nicely in the fermentor. Any small particles drop to the bottom and sit and I get clear beer. Haze etc is more about getting the pH etc right and I do not think that small particles in the wort make much difference.

Would I not need a false bottom for the elements?

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