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Faucet hieght should be taken when pouring (measured from the mid point of the keg - that way you are slightly over for half / slightly under for the other)
You really need to know what diameter your tube is. Most US sites recommend 10'/3m of 3/16 tube, which is slightly less than 5mm, going to 5mm tube (easily available at you local Bunnings et al) you need more (and it is not proportional). Going to 4mm tube you need less but good luck getting 4mm tube onto 1/4" barbs which is what most QD/picnic taps I have seen have. Currently I have one picnic tap with about 3m of 4mm tube which is stuffed into pieces 6mm tube attached to the barbs and then cable tied tight. The other has about 10m of 5mm line and is a bit more finicky to get ballanced.
Don't worry about CO2 length, just make it easy enough to move around, etc.
on its way
I agree, if I was to buy anymore QDs I would be gettin the flared fittings, then get some smaller flared barbs or go the JG route.
I have 1.5m on each of my taps, the science suggested about 4 m of beer line, the seperate regs and spot on carbonting and she pours like a charm, I originally got caught up in the whole fluid dynamics, then went back to basics and what do you know beer comes out of the taps cold and it tastes good, what more could you want of a fridge
I found this article in BYO the most useful as it explains the whole equation. A lot of people don't take into account the resistance from taps and shanks. Even a picnic tap adds 0.5psi resistance.
You often don't need as much line as you think, and by choosing a smaller ID beer line you waste less beer if you leave it sitting. With the smaller ID lines you just need a kettle with boiling water to soften it and a bit of welly to fit it over the barb.
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