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This is what I am planning on brewing tomorrow. Any suggestions? Sorry for the Imperial measurements. When I order grain here, I have to go imperial, so it is easier to use just one measurement.
Pre-Boil Amounts
Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 7 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.055
Grain/Extract/Sugar
12.5 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America
1.81 lbs. Wheat Malt America
.75 lbs. Crystal 20L America
.50 lbs. Carapils
Hops
.50 oz. Columbus Pellet 15.00 60 min
1.00 oz. Columbus Pellet 15.00 20 min
1.00 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 20 min
.50 oz. Columbus Pellet 15.00 10 min
.50 oz. Cascade Pellet 5.75 10 min
.50 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.90 Dry Hop
.50 oz. Columbus Pellet 15.00 Dry Hop
.50 oz. Centennial Pellet 10.50 Dry Hop
Yeast --- Wyeast 1056
Mash Schedule
Mash Type: Single Step -- 152 60 Min
Mash-out Rest: 168 10 Min
Sparge: 172 0 Min
Hi Planning this any ideas welcome unsure of the yeast available in auckland. but keen to give it a go.
Copy of 120 Minute IPA Clone |
Imperial IPA |
Type: All Grain |
Date: 5/09/2011 |
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Batch Size: 25.00 L |
Brewer: Dave Wood |
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Boil Size: 31.23 L |
Asst Brewer: |
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Boil Time: 120 min |
Equipment: new 28L |
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Taste Rating(out of 50): 0.0 |
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 |
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Taste Notes: |
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Ingredients |
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Beer Profile |
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Est Original Gravity: 1.201 SG |
Measured Original Gravity: 0.000 SG |
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Est Final Gravity: 1.044 SG |
Measured Final Gravity: 0.000 SG |
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Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 21.06 % |
Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.00 % |
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Bitterness: 169.0 IBU |
Calories: 0 cal/l |
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Est Color: 15.1 EBC |
Color:
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Mash Profile |
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Mash Name: Abbey Mash Profile |
Total Grain Weight: 10.90 kg |
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Sparge Water: 10.81 L |
Grain Temperature: 15.6 C |
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Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C |
TunTemperature: 15.6 C |
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Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE |
Mash PH: 5.4 PH |
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Mash Notes: |
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Carbonation and Storage |
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Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar |
Volumes of CO2: 0.0 |
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Pressure/Weight: -99.2 gm |
Carbonation Used: - |
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Keg/Bottling Temperature: 15.6 C |
Age for: 364.0 days |
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Storage Temperature: 18.0 C |
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Notes |
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In a bowl, mixed together 3g. Amarillo, 3g. Warrior, 3g Simcoe and blended together. Made 20 Dixie cups with 9 grams in each cup. Add 1 cup every 6 minutes for all of 120 minute boil. |
You will probably want some yeast nutrient in there if you are going through the trouble to give it oxygen.
I am surprised about the oxygen though. Isn't it a good idea to avoid it once fermentation is going?
oxygen causes oxidation in the beer... would that not count as a bad thing?
Apparently it's actually a good idea to add extra oxygen in the first couple of days of fermenting a very high gravity beer. I've been reading up on Belgians recently, and for the strong styles, it's a way of making sure that the yeast finishes all the sugars and also keeps esters from getting out of hand. I think Palmer says anything over 1.060ish can benefit from a second aeration 12 hours after pitching?
The Dogfish 120 recipe is just extending that idea with higher gravity and a second pitch of yeast.
I've not used pure O2, but surely 1200psi has to be a typo?
1200PSI would give great aeration tho!!
What pressure is bottled gas usually at?
When your putting your beer in fermenter this is the ONLY time you should add oxygen. A rule of thumb is 1mg/l per degree Plato or 1 mg per liter per 1.004 SG. (1mg/l = 1PPM) so 1.040 would want 10ppm before pitching. So 1200 psi wouldn't do any good. You can use pure air if its sterile filtered but using air the most you will ever dissolve is 10ppm or 10 mg/l. So you make a 1.060 OG beer. You woun't be able to oxygenate it properly.
This lets the yeast bud and multiply before it starts the actual anaerobic fermentation stage of turning sugars in to alchohol. If you add it anywhere other than at pitching your asking for trouble. As most homebrewers can't measue in PPM the easiest option is Olive Oil. (Links have been on here before).
The Olive Oil provides the nutrients the yeast needs instead of oxygen and you only need literally a tiny drop on the end of a cocktail stick for 20 ltrs. Because its such a small amount you don't get the head negative effects.
All this being said, I drop my cooled wort into an fv from about 50-60cm to oxygenate it, put in the yeast and let it go and I've had no issues. Its worked for open FV brewers for a few centuries so I,m happy to do that. Did it in a micro I worked in as well and it served them well for 25 years.
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