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http://www.grainfather.com/

Mangrove Jacks new all grain unit - its nice

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Problem with efficiency is it depends not only on the equipment but other factors like crush quality. 65% is not god awful but not fantastic. I would be expecting that it will better than that in reality though. Just hedging their bets somewhat - if it's better everyones happy, if it is 65% no one complains (or at least shouldn't)

Yeah I got unbelievably bad efficiency with a golden promise based brew which had hardly been crushed at all, more like cracked....should have finished at 1060 but ended up 1040.

Gladfileds grain size is way bigger then biards marris otter, find I have to adjust my mill to suit the base grain... otherwise to much MO goes through uncrushed, bit of a PITA.   I would be expect an 80%'s number from the GF

fewer people tonight Mark, more beer for us....  I have a stout and a 100% pacific gem ipa that I am way keen to try. Super keen to try your monster clone.  

From their website:

When brewing and considering efficiencies, you should think about efficiencies in two parts – in your Grainfather and in your fermenter. The Grainfather brewing efficiencies vary based on the ingredients and recipe used.

The Grainfather can produce a mash efficiency % of up to the high 80s (when still in the Grainfather). After the trub is removed and your wort is transferred to your fermenter, you should end up with between 21-23 L (depending on boil times).

The below example shows the types of parameters which were used to get this efficiency rate:

Grain Bill:

4.75KG Pilsner Malt

0.25 KG Acidulated malt

90 minute boil (preboil volume = 28 L)

Grainfather efficiency = 24.5 L @ 1.050 (OG)

= 84.48% efficiency

In the fermenter = 22.5 L @ 1.050 (OG)

= 77.6% efficiency

COMMON MISCONCEPTION: Efficiencies are good for big breweries as they need to calculate how much they are spending and what they get out of the brew, the problem with this is that often the quality is dropped to get a larger quantity. Most people think that the higher the efficiency, the better the beer. This is not always the case – to gain certain characteristics, ingredients and methods are changed and thus the efficiencies differ. This is what makes brewing your own beer so great, you can experiment and get a good quantity of beer with a great quality.

Good stuff.

I'll dial in me first recipe at 80% and see how I go.

I tri

1st NZ shipment sold out 100 all grain brewers , this forum is going to get busy

There's one left on Trade Me - $950. Good price, but excludes the mash paddle, all grain kit and t-shirt.

The Behemoth Chur kit is great, but I wouldn't be too bothered about the shirt or paddle. The stainless paddle's a bit rough on the sides of the mash basket, a plastic or wooden one would leave less scratches and dents.

I did wear the t shirt when I brewed though :-) 

I like Chur, how detailed is the recipe?

For those looking for a great recipe try the Maximus clone then buy a bottle to say thankyou to steve for publishing it and to do a side by side...  great recipe.   Simple but solid

http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/group/clone-brews/forum/topics/hall...

Someone has posted a piccy on the grain father website and you can see all but the hop additions.  It tells you how much you are adding when but not a breakdown of the which hops as they are all in one pack with the time written on them.

whats the base malt breakdown?

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