You'll need Lager or Pilsner malt, with some Crystal and Munich malts. Depending on how close you want to attempt to get you would use New Zealand Malt (Liberty has Malturop Pilsen Malt, DMH has Gladfield's (the later needs acid treatment depending on your water profile)).
Steinlager Pure supposedly uses a selection of New Zealand's hops, including Pacific Jade. I would hazard a guess you have Green Bullet (a stable hop with all Steinlager brews by the looks), Super Alpha and Pacific Jade hops to 20~25IBU.
So a quick recipe which may be close but not a true clone for a 20litre batch...
3.50 kg Pilsen Grain
0.20 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L
0.13 kg Munich I (Weyermann)
7.00 gm Green Bullet [13.50 %] (60 min) Hops 11.8 IBU
5.00 gm Super Alpha [13.00 %] (30 min) Hops 6.2 IBU
8.00 gm Pacific Jade [13.00 %] (15 min) Hops 6.4 IBU
10.00 gm Pacific Jade [13.00 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
2 Pkgs WeihenStephen (DCL #W34/70) Yeast-Lager
Primary @ 11C for two ~ three weeks (or until 75% of gravity), diacetyl rest if required then into secondary for 4 ~ 6 weeks @ 4C, prime and bottle condition for 4 ~ 8 weeks, or keg, carb and serve.
hi, thanks very much for the recipe
i would like to ask two more things ,if that is ok
i have a sack of gladfield malt pilsen and pale (very cheap down here from the malt house)
but what do you mine by acid treatment, i get my water out of the lake ( the lake is just across the road from my house here in queenstown)
if i use tap water it takes a lot longer for the fermention to start
i don't know DCL#w34/70 yeast, what sells it.
i do have a pack of wyest 2007 on the way and a 1056 from real beer
i all ways use the yest for three or four brews ,not a bad price then
thanks donald
Gladfield's malt needs a little extra acidity to get the pH of the mash to the right level (if you worry about stuff like that) to help with conversion etc. To be honest if you don't have pH strips or a pH meter, don't stress, just make beer! :)
Your tap water will probably have chorline in it and yeast doesn't like it much. If your lake water is clean use that, much better but I would probably boil it prior to using just incase there are any bugs in it!
W34/70 is a dry yeast which I get from Craftbrewer in Aussie, it's used internationally in lagers etc. If you have Wyeast 2007 use it! 1056 is okay if you ferment about 15 ~ 16C, then crash cool, however may not produce the same crispness.