My first brew

[Rob Kenyon]

Hi there,

I'm about to put down my first attempt at home brewing in the next few days (just waiting for one last bit of equipment).

I'm planning on starting with a couple of extract kits and as I find my feet then I plan to get a little more adventurous.

My first kit is a Mangrove jacks roasted stout with enhancer kit.

This is all very foreign to me except where I have been watching a few youtube videos and doing some reading up of John Palmers 'how to brew' book.

 

Before I get into it I would really appreciate some advice from those who are in the know.

 

1) A lot of the reading I have done has suggested that while you can get good results from extract brewing, you shouldn't listen to the instructions on the kits....is this good advice for mangrove jacks, or in general? It seems like it could be a good extract kit.....if it's not, what are good little tips?  

Pouch instructions are:

a) add extract to 3l of boiling water;

b) top up with cold water to 23l, stir in yeast;

c) leave to ferment at 20-25deg for 10days;

d) bottle and mature for min of 3 weeks.

2) Is the kit ingredients sufficient? malts, hops, yeast - Is it worth getting fresh yeast?

3) Is it better to boil the wort for 30min (as is suggested in a lot of the reading I have done) or simply add the malt extract to the water?

4) How do finings work, or just clarifying beer in general? Is it worth doing?

5) Best way to prime bottles prior to bottling?

6) Should I be concerned with the bottles over pressurising? How do you ensure correct carbonation levels?

7) OG and SG required for this brew/style and how do I achieve those? The gravities aren't on the kit.

 

Thank you for your time and assistance!

Rob

[Graham]

Hi Rob, I'm only a little further along the path from you, having done just four brews, but I'm responding as I started off with Mangrove Jacks kits also (specifically the Craft Series). I've brewed three of them, and now have my first non-MJ brew in the fermenter.

For what it's worth, I followed the Mangrove Jacks instructions exactly, to the letter (apart from the yeast - see below), and ended up with beer that was certainly quite drinkable. As I said above, I've only just now got my first non-MJ brew in the fermenter, so I can't comment on what difference there is, but I'm certainly looking forward to trying it out and comparing!

I used the yeast that came with the Mangrove Jacks Craft Series kits and had no problem. The one extra step I did was to rehydrate the yeast in luke-warm water as many people suggest, then add to the fermenter.

From my (very limited) understanding, there is no benefit to gain from boiling the wort, as it is pre-hopped.

I used finings but again, due to my lack of experience I can't comment on what difference it makes.

Priming: I used the carbonation tablets that you can buy, two per 750 ml bottle. No explosions yet (although I did have one bottle that seems to have somehow leaked but I'm not sure how yet) and every bottle carbed up just fine. I imagine that as I get more adventurous myself I'll start looking into bulk priming.

Disclaimer - as I say I'm NOT that experienced, but I have brewed three Mangrove Jacks Craft Series kits with no issues and ended up with perfectly drinkable (if not knock-your-socks-off awe-inspiring) beers. So you should be just fine!

Graham

[Ryan Perkins]

Hi Rob,

I have only been brewing for 6 months but I will attempt to answer this for you as I was in your position not so long ago (experienced brewers please correct me where you see fit).

Like you I started with an extract kit and followed their instructions but my result was far from pleasant. I did a bit of reading and tried another kit and the beer improved significantly. In the end I ditched extract and went to all grain but that's not to say you can't make a good beer with extract kits.

Anyway I am waffling so I'll get to your questions:

a) If the extract is hopped then this is probably the way to go as the hops will further isomerise if boiled for too much longer and become too bitter. With all grain you do a full boil of at least 1 hour and add your hops a different stages.

b) if you are going to do it this way make sure the water is sterilised in some way to avoid infection. Doing a full boil like mentioned above avoids this step but of course you need a bigger pot and gas burner etc. Rehydrating the yeast in a small amount of sterile water will give you a better result than just sprinkling it in.

c) I would go at the bottom end of this temp if at all possible. For an ale between 19-20 is pretty good but may not always be practical with limited equipment. Have a look at temp control on youtube to get some ideas. At the higher temps the yeast produces off flavours that can dominate the overall taste. (My first one tasted like pure banana)

d) yes

2) Buying fresh pack of dry yeast will definitely improve your beer. Safale US - 05 is a pretty versatile ale yeast and costs about $6.

3) If you are adding your own hops you should do a full boil otherwise I'm not sure it is necessary as the extract has already gone through the boil process.

4) I used to use beer finings but I have found them to be unnecessary. A day or two before bottling you can cold crash in the fridge which will further clear the beer.

5) I just use carb drops at the moment as it is convenient but using a priming bucket and priming sugar will give you more control over the level of carbonation you want to achieve.

6) Make sure you get a consistent hydrometer reading at around your expected FG for your beer before you bottle. (Usually about 1.010 for extract kits).  If the FG is too high then the fermentation is incomplete and you will most likely get bottle bombs. Using carb drops is one way to ensure a safe carb level providing you are at your correct FG.

7) Not sure about this one but you could have a look on the Mangrove Jacks website. I'd imagine it would be around 1.045 OG and 1.010 FG but being a stout it could be higher.

 

I think it is pretty safe to say that good sanitation, temp control and using a quality yeast are the best ways to improve your beer.

Hope this helps and please keep in mind I am still learning like you.

Cheers

Ryan

[Crusader-Rob]

2- is a really good point.
But check out this post here: http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/simple-things-to-avoid...

some great points.

[Ryan Perkins]

I remember that post now, would have been easier just to point to that!

[Rob Kenyon]

some really good reading in that link

[Nathan]

I brewed kits for over a year and in that time I managed to make some what I would call reasonably good beers nothing award winning but very drinkable......Here is my go to recipe for a simple session el-cheapo brew

Black Rock Lager can

About 60-70gms hops(I tended to use high alpha ones Dr Rudi etc)

Kilo Dextrose

300-500g Light unhopped dry malt extract

While cleaning and sterilizing(even new gear) everything id put about 4ltrs water on the boil.

Once boiling id throw some hops into a coffee plunger and fill with boiling water and let sit for 10mins or so

While the hops are sitting I soften can contents in hot tap water

Pour dextrose and dry malt extract into fermenter(dont try and add it after you have put the boiling water in as the steam causes issues)

Then add 2ltrs of the boiling water

Then add can of goop, use a little of the left over boiling water to slosh the goop out and into fermenter

Give it a good stir up 

Plunge the hops and add to mix.

Top up with cold tap water to the 23ltr mark with a jug from height to aerate the wort. 

Check temp if ok pitch yeast (US-05 is good option).

Put somewhere with a stable temp(I have full temp control so no issues there for me).

Wait 4 days then throw some more hops into the barrel(no hop bag required).

Wait till day 6 then add finings(mixed into a cup of hot water).

Wait another 2 days then bottle using drops......ONLY IF GRAVITY HAS STOPPED DROPPING OVER A 48 HOUR PERIOD!!!!

So at day 4 take a reading then again at day 6 then day 8.And its compulsory to drink these samples.

Condition for 3 weeks at another stable temp out of direct sunlight....

Try one after a week and then at two then three so can appreciate the ageing process.

Then repeat and reinvest in equipment ie temp control etc etc 

And the most important part is keep telling your partner that your saving heaps by brewing your own.......

 

[Rob Kenyon]

Haha yeah my wifes actually on side with this home brewing lark, on the proviso I make her some cider!....

[Rob Kenyon]

Some awesome feedback here, thanks heaps for your input.

Temp control should be pretty simple, I have an old fridge, an electric blanket and am just waiting for the temp controller to arrive.

Sounds like it may pay to get some known (labeled yeast) and apart from will pretty well stick to the instructions this time around. Obviously ensuring sanitization is paramount, I will keep the fermentation temp down around 19-20deg for 12-14 days, crash cool for a couple of days to let the sediment fall out of suspension then bottle.

 

One or two of these and then I will start to experiment a little.

Thanks again

 

[Nathan]

Where did you get the temp controller from and what brand is it?

[Rob Kenyon]

I got an STC1000 off trademe for $28. Looks pretty simple to wire up, have looked at a bunch of youtube videos and I'll build an aluminum box at work for it

[Peter Smith]

get an stc-1000 heat and cool one like these

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResults.aspx?searchString=stc...

I am selling this unit as I got a stack of 110v powered ones for free, this one is standard NZ power...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=771861688

you can do it yourself if you are reasonably competent

.

[Nathan]

Shameless plug I have this one for sale and will match any price cheaper

http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/lifestyle/home-brewing/auction...