Hop Comparison

[MrC]

I'm planning on brewing three beers (over time) with the only difference being the hops with the aim of learning the characterstics of each of the hops.

I'm planning on a simple recipe of:

100% Maris Otter base
1056 yeast
all fermented as close to 19C as I can get them.

How should I hop?
I was thinking of using a common bittering hop (Pacific Jade or Super Alpha) to 25 IBU.

Then using a varying hop for two hop additions of:
12g at 10min
25g at 0min

Batch 1 = Riwaka
Batch 2 = Nelson Sauvin
Batch 3 = NZ Styrian Golding
and then possibly (if I haven't lost interest) Batch 4 = Motueka

What do you think of the hops schedule & volumes?
Are they suitable for all of the hops?
Should I use the variable hop for bitterring also?
Any thoughts?

[Rusty Chch]

Would you consider making one batch and doing 4 x 5l boils? I suppose a more ed-you-kated man than I could tell you if it would make the experiment invalid but you'd get the results quicker

I'm v. keen to read your thoughts though, it's an interesting experiment.

You could extend it well by locking the malt and hops and varying the yeast

[Stu McKinlay]

OG and IBU? I'd go 1.045 and about 30-35ibu.

I'd use the variable hop for bittering too.
And I'd up the 10min addition to 25g to give it more punch.
AA%'s will be different so you may want to calculate bitterness units of the ten minute addition and adjust your 60min addition accordingly, so as to end up with about the same bitterness for each beer.

I want to do this too - tonight!!!

I think Rusty is on to a good idea with the 4 x 5L boils. I'd be happy to donate a 10L pot for the weekend if you needed it.

Cheers
Stu

[James P]

This is what I am doing with my lagers, using the same hop for the full schedule.

My hopping schedule for a 10litre extract batch is usually 20g @ 30, 15g @ 15 and 15g @ 0 (or to 25 - 30 IBU)

I am going to buy some smaller fermenters or carboys though and do half batches similar to what Rusty has mentioned. That way I can experiment a lot more.

I'll use the same yeast , and the same grain bill when doing AG (100% base pilsner).

[MrC]

Good thinking Rusty. I can easily do two 10L boils and therefore cover all my brews in two brew days. Might even be able to squeeze three out of it.

[MrC]

Does size matter? Will 5L of wort ferment OK in a 30L fermenter?

[Stu McKinlay]

I won't make a joke about that question - I'll leave that to JT ;-)

It will ferment ok but you'll want to move it out of there as soon as possible, and don't open the fermenter for a peak, that's a lot of headspace to deal with.

[studio1]

If you are handy to Auckland I have three 1 gallon glass carboys with airlocks you could borrow.

[jt]

For some reason the figures of 1gm per litre stick in my mind .. at 10 minute and 1 minute, or could be flame out. Use the bittering addition to balance out your final IBU.

Oh, and go the Super Alpha !

Is fermenter size a worry ? Considered demijohns ?

[JoKing]

Yeah - I can't believe you didn't consider Super Alpha as one of the NZ varieties in your trial!

[jt]

Yeah, who needs all those other fandangled fancy hops anyway ?

[JoKing]

Not me - I still need to learn how to make good tasting beer! You cant even taste the hops through my brettanomyces and lactobacillis dominated fermentations!

[denimglen]

If you haven't already go to www.homebrewtalk.com and search for 'smash' (single malt and single hop) brews. Lots of interesting info their.

There's a thread there started by 'Orfy' who came up with the idea over there. Have heard some good stories about MO + Fuggles and 100% Munich and Northern Brewer.

I'd use the variable hop for bittering also, gives you an idea of the sorta bitterness it gives the brew.