fermentation temperature control

[Thies]

I am deciding to go for one of those temperature controlled devices to control my fermentation temp. I have a spare fridge in the garage to use , so that side is sorted.  I do have a few questions:

what temperature control unit am i best to get ? there are some that i understand only do cool OR heat, and there are some that do cool AND heat?

if i have to get a heating device, what am I best off to get, a heating belt, heating pad or something else? i ferment in a standard plastic 30ltr bucket. 

what is the best way to fix the temperature probe ? some mention to fix it to the outside of the fermentation bucket, wrapped in bubble wrap, others suggest to fix it somehow inside the fermentation bucket? i understand this last suggestion makes more sense to get a more accurate reading, but any suggestions on how to do this and make is sanitary possible and not leak? 

any do or don't's I should be aware of? 

also, I am looking at oxygenating the wort, before adding the yeast. would using a fish pond pump and air stone be a good option?

cheers

 

[Nicholas Jones]

This is some testing we did earlier in the year to test the myths of fermentation temp control on a homebrew scale, you can see the variation is well under a degree between measuring the liquid and measuring the space around the fermenter - the temp swings are just a little more pronounced for each of the data points. We used a 4 channel k-type datalogger and some flash software. Hopefully this answers some questions! 

[Sam DT]

Mint! Nice work, love the graph!

Did you have a circulation fan running in your fridge? (might explain the lower reading at tri-clamp if not).

I'm guessing if you had your fermentor in a room you might see a bit more of a variation due to the volume/contact differences - probably the initial source of the 4 degree difference advice perhaps?

I have had some wild variations when fermenting two different beers in the same fridge at the same time but that's more me being stupid/in a hurry having the STC taped to one fermentor which finished early and then the other one running away on me.

[Nicholas Jones]

Thanks Sam, nah no fan, yeah we theorised there was a bit of stratification of the air going on too. You're probably correct re the 'room theory' too. Was great to kindof bust the myths, sticky tape on the outside of the fermenter with a wad of insulating material is just fine, even with relatively thick plastic.

[Ian]

Nice work Nicholas. I am coming rather late to this discussion but am in the throes of purchasing a 7 gal. SS fermenter and also an Inkbird unit. It seems to me from this (but I may have misinterperated it all hopelessly) that a probe measuring air temperature in the fridge will give a pretty good indication of wort temperature? I see a video where a British guy uses a cheap tubular heater in his fridge but I can't find where to buy one in NZ and wonder whether the wee fermenter belt would cut the mustard?

[jt]

Yea, I use one, propped up away fromthe fermemnter, works fine

[Ian]

Initially I will likely try a heat belt as a mate does, but this suggestion remains an option if it isn't enough. Thanks.

[Ian]

Never thought of that - thanks. 

[Peter Scandlyn]

Look, first off I'm an electronic dummy so please be gentle.

I have one of these wired and set up to run, BUT, I don't know how to set the darn thing operating.

It's one of those that have been fiddled with just about time the Grainfather Connect came out with the idea of swapping out the original GF controller and substituting one of these. The one I have is able to cool and heat at the same time and also ramp.

I only want it though to operate as a heat controller within a set range. Nothing else. Just don't know how. Have screeds of words on sheets that I just can't fathom. Is there anyone able to guide me please?

It's been poked and prodded at so may have a jumbled brain by now, bit like mine, and could probably do with a return to default condition, which I don't know how to do either.

[Cain Harland]

So there are 4 things that you can set on an STC1000

F1 - Set temp
F2 - Differential  - how far out from the set temp you need to be before hot or cold will come on - I set mine to 0.5c - you want this small enough to avoid getting to far away from your desired temperature - but large enough to avoid it flickering on and off or worse getting into a cycle of turning cooling on to compensate for a small overshoot in heating then heating to compensate for the cooling over shoot.
F3 - Compressor Delay - wait time between detecting high temp and turning cooling on - saves a bit of wear and tear on your fridge compressor.
F4 - Calibration 

F1 is the main thing you set and the easiest:

Hold set key until screen says F1 release * and tap set again, use arrows to set temp then tap power

For any of the others where I have put the * in the line above use arrows select F2, F3 or F4 then continue as you would with temp

[Peter Scandlyn]

Thanks Cain. 

I'm away from things presently but you've given me something to concentrate on when I get back. Cheers

[Ian]

I see a bit of a revival of this thread. Further to my replies above, I have now used my set-up for some time. It is the old fridge, an Inkbird controller and an SS fermentor with a thermowell for the probe. It has proven absolutely splendid and I would like to set up another one. I have just hung the heat belt on a coat-hanger on the blow-off pipe and it has proven most adequate for the small amount of heat required. For my next fermentation chamber (additional one) I am considering splashing out on a decent upright freezer.

Cheers,

Ian