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Over the past 2 weeks or so I have been looking at making my system fully electric. My proposed setup is as follows:
3000W Element from Ebay, $22 USD with free shipping. According to my calculations, it comes under the Ultra Low Watt Density designation, so it won't scorch the wort. I have also looked at the Camco 3500W ULWD Element from Amazon, which is what I have seen many other brewers using. However, it is around two times the price of the element on Ebay. I have checked my circuit breakers, and all of the wall socket circuits are rated for 20A, so I should be fine there.
To control the element, I intend to construct a box with a standard 3 pin input, leading to a PID, which will control an SSR that will switch the current going to a male IEC socket. Here are some pictures of something similar:
As you can see, the output used in this box is a female socket, which leaves exposed pins, which is not good.
I have done some reading up on the PIDs, and it seems that the cheap Ebay PIDs are not worth the hassle, as they will have compatibility issues with both the temperature probes I intend to use, and they will not natively control an SSR. Many brewers recommend the 'Auber' brand PIDs. These are more expensive, but seem to have less issues. They also have manual control over output, which means you can control boil intensity. The model I am looking at is the SYL-2352.
I think any SSR will do, as long as it is 15A or over and is capable of handling 250V. Is there any downfalls to using a 40A SSR when a 25A SSR would do fine, such as lower efficiency, etc? There are hundreds of SSRs for sale on Ebay, most of them are the same as the one in the picture above. They're only $5 or so, so that's no big deal.
I will probably use a PT100 temperature probe, which has three wires coming from it. Could a 3.5mm jack be used for quick swapping of probes?
So, does this seem like a good setup? Anything wrong here?
Lastly, if I do go through with this, I will most likely be ordering an Auber PID. If anyone would like to order one with me, we could split the shipping costs. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Sorry, been busy trying to catch salmon from the Harbour :) And now the dolphins came in and ate them all :) http://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/238638/close-encounters-dolphins-... It was pretty awesome sight when they came in...
Hey guys, I'm interested in ordering some stuff from Auber (PID, SSR, RTD) for an electric brew setup pretty much identical to the picture above.
Clinton - I'm interested in ordering some stuff from Auber with you to save cash on shipping if you haven't already bought it...?
James, how did your Auber order go? Did it take long? All installed ok?
Did they ship straight to you, or did you try that NZ Post YouShop?
Would you do anything different if you did it again?
I'm getting ready to order below, for Herms controller / step mash.
Is anyone interested in adding to the order and sharing shipping? Auckland area.
Controller
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=...
and Heatsink
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=...
Any reason for going with the ramp/soak unit? Just note that from the specs on the webpage it looks like you can not use that one in manual mode.
This one you can http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=... use in manual mode.
Also for the sensor the one you linked doesn't seem to have the disconnect - so the extra cable will not work. You might want to look at using this sensor http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=... as it works with the delux cable (only $11 extra when bought as a package) and is also 1/2" NPT which will screw into a 1/2" BSP fitting that is more common in NZ (the 1/4" NPT won't fit a 1/4" BSP exactly - 18 TPI vs 19 TPI). It is also only $3 more that what you have listed.
And they had a pid with countdown timer, I liked the look of this as I brew v early morning and it could bring water up to strike for a 5am mash in while I stayed in bed 8)
I am sure this company had same pid but with a countdown to on for another $10
Thanks for spotting the probe mistake.
for the controller, sorry i wasn't clear. I want to use it for a Herms only, not for HLT or Boil, which will be gas fired.
Will use the ramp soak as below:
1- Dough in say 45Deg C, ie using hot tap water
2- Get the mash recirculating properly through the Herms HX - which is yet to be built.
3- Set the PID with a mash profile, say 10mins at 45, ramp to 55, hold 15mins, ramp to 66, hold 45mins, ramp to 71, then signal alarm.
This way I can set the gear up, mash recirculating thru march pump, and then leave it unattended until ready to run into kettle.
I can see the attraction of a delayed start, so ready to boil at 7am say, but that would only apply for a BIAB in an Urn, unless there's some other fancy pump / valve controls?
I'm possibly biting off a bit much at once, currently am a Biab-er.
Hey,
Yep order was unusually quick - took 4 days from the US straight to my door in Auckland. Order the slightly more expensive shipping - international deluxe or something like that - it's only a few more dollars so worth it.
Unfortunately between the workload of med school and an unplanned leapfrogging of my kegging project into the fore, I haven't managed to work much on my HERMS/electric HLT setup past getting my chilly bin mash tun sorted. Only thing I'd do differently would be take the PID with a timer, although this is easily got around with alternate techniques. So yeah, take others' advice on the system setup!
Thanks James, 4 days isn't too bad!
Those who are using the timer model, how do you configure it, and for what part of your process??
thx
I was planning to use this to bring things up to mash in temps and then hold so if I was doing early morning or afterwork brew, the system would warm up for me so I could either stay in bed between 5am - 6am or be on bus on way home from work to find system ready to brew.
they have a count down function to turn on.
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