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New dual 10 amp fully electric control panel. Another Kal clone. Half way through the boil at 80% duty cycle. Used it for two batches now and gone great.

HLT PID (left) is a cheap Rex. Quite like it, easy to adjust, nice buttons, great price. Only minor issue is the display gets hard to read in daylight.

Blank space is for a Mash PID one day.

Boil PID is the usual Auber PID (as per http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/) for the auto/manual mode but not a huge fan so far. Its great being able to hold the temperature at ~98 degrees while sparging before switching to manual - saves a bit of time bringing it to the boil, but the controls are fiddly compared to the Rex.

I think using a regular PID for automatic control and a separate PWM control for manual mode would be nicer to use and cost about the same.
Also Auber were too cheap to include a basic instruction sheet in the box, download only. Even the Rex PID included enough instructions to get by.

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Comment by Brett Mason on August 2, 2015 at 12:23pm
Oh, and to complete the review, the timer is a sestos. Nicest display and easy enough to get setup. Thought I wanted the button per digit layout like the one favoured by Kal but the buttons are tiny and don't press nicely. Now that I've used both I thing the digit at a time only method used by the pids is easier for me.
Comment by Brett Mason on October 25, 2015 at 11:06pm
I take it back, the rex pid died today after about 10 uses. Could have just been a bad one but going to splash out on a sestos to replace it.
Comment by Brett Mason on December 23, 2015 at 3:56pm

And another follow up, it turns out that the Sestos D1S-VR-220 has manual output mode just like the Auber PID, just hit the "RUN" button to enter manual mode. So grab one of these if you are going the electric route and save a bunch of money.

I tried to search for this useful bit of information prior to ordering my Auber but not even the Sestos manual says it explicitly.

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