False Bottom or Braid

[Scarrfie]

Due to my recent purchase highlighted over on the Trademe thread I will be stepping up from my modified BIAB system. Internal diameter is around 280mm. Only thing I haven't done yet is take the cap off to see if it is insulated between the two skins, which seem about 25mm apart. Bonus is I have two so can step up to 40L batches with just a bigger pot and a burner.

Question is should I go for a false bottom or the braid method, I see some of you prefer the braid method. Another option I have is that I have around half a square metre of stainless mesh left from another job and that has gaps around 1.2mm. If I use the mesh any ideas on a fitting to exit the urn (3/4")

If I were to go to a false bottom is there a local supplier or am I best to try amazon or ebay, or whoever will ship to NZ?

[Grant R Baker]

Both work fine. 

I went braid as it was easy to get hold off (outer skin off a wash tub hose from Bunnings) ans easily attached to the inside nipple connecting to the ball valve (oh is is very cheap).

That's for a 34l chilly bin and I have had no issues.... but you might want to consider a false bottom if the weight of the mash might crush the braid hose.

I have seen on utube that some wind 22 wire inside the braid to prevent this.

 

[Damon Colbert]

Yeah I've tried the wire coil thing. Works well, but the problem is if you're not careful about drying the braid, the wire will rust and ruin the braid.  I use unsupported braid and I've never had a problem with it collapsing (under 6kg grain loads, at least).

John Palmer has a pretty good discussion of the pros/cons of the various systems in his book (and presumably the website howtobrew.com).  There's a lot of discussion about efficiency, fluid dynamics etc, but what it breaks down to is how you intend on sparging.  The most straight-forward way is batch sparging; mixing the sparge water with your grain bed, recirculating, collecting it all, and repeat; and in that system you might as well use the SS braid or PVC manifold (they are much simpler to obtian/make).

If you are planning on fly sparging (continuously applying sparge water from a hot liquor tun) then you will have greater efficiency with a false bottom.  That's not to say batch sparging won't work with a false bottom, but the efficiency gained from a false bottom might be redundant.

My personal choice, having only started late 2011, was to use the braid which is cheaper and easier to construct.  That said, I have found it simpler to continuously sparge (as it means avoiding having to recirculate multiple times), so I will probably change to a false bottom in the near future.  It should be a pretty simple thing to change from one to the other. 

If you don't want to worry about extract efficiency and all that just yet (and I wouldn't) then the braid might be simplest.

[Chris P]

I am in the process of the Braid conversion. I picked up a Braid exactly in the same fashion as you describe (outer skin off a wash tub hose) and have fittings at each end which actually perfectly fit to other pieces of kit I wanted to put together. 

I want some advice on how best to pull the inner out without wrecking it (do I need to pull both ends' fittings off to achieve this?) and how do I best cut into the Braid if I need to pull the inner part out?

Finally where is good to get the 22 wire? (if that is what you used?)

Thanks for any help and advice.

[Damon Colbert]

Well, I actually cut the fittings off both ends, and used a pair of needle-nosed pliers and some brute force combined with twisting action to pull the inner out.Couldn't see any way to do it without removing the fittings.  Then you can use hose clamps to secure it to some sort of hose barb, or some similar assembly.

[Chris P]

Sweet. Will have to try a twisting method as straight pulling will not get the job done! (well hasn't so far)

 

[Dougal]

If you pull the braid it will tighten over the hose. Try pushing it while holding onto the hose with pliers. It should be relatively easy to expand an area of braid and work it off the hose moving away from you.

[Chris P]

I will keep trying. So far the braid is not budging either way and the rubber tubing breaks off at whatever point I have it clamped at... I thought braids would be a nice easy method haha... 

[Grant R Baker]

Keep going... it is a real bast@rd but it does come off.

From memory I used an adjustable spanner to push from one end and needle nose pliers to hold the other . Also use the pliers to pry the SS away from the rubber at both ends just to help get it started (you're probably well past that).

[Scarrfie]

Thanks for the input guys. As for efficiency I generally get 80-85% into the fermenter with this set up. I drain into the pot, fill up with sparge water and stir for 5-10 mins before draining again. I lift the bag at that stage and do give it a bit of a squeeze as well. Since batch sparging has worked for me I am thinking of sticking with that.

Perhaps a 3/4" nipple with the stainless mesh I have fabricated then hose clamped around it may work?

[Grant R Baker]

That is one sick (good) looking BIAB setup (except it isn't in the kettle).

Damon, sorry the 22 was meant to be SS, as in Stainless Steel Wire, which you can get from bunnings too. Yeasties Boys nevaRRaven 3/3 got to my typing last night... nice drop.

Scarrfie, I have been playing with slight longer and longer batch sparges. I use to leave it for 15 minutes but now its 30 minutes and I'm getting well over 80%... espeically for the heavier recipes (7% plus beers)

[Damon Colbert]

Yeah stainless steel wire would probably be fine.  I can say with certainty that galvanised wire will not cut the mustard.

Watch out for that nevaRRaven, that'll floor you.

[jt]

When I've watched other peoples systems, the braid seems to run clearer quicker than my false bottom.

Go braid, cheap, readily available and if you don't like it, not much is lost