Electric Brewery's

[Scott H]

We spoke about creating a discussion so people who have or people who are thinking about and/or building can share pic's info and pitfalls to avoid.

Just about finished building my bench and hopefully will have a chance to start wiring it up this weekend. Pics to follow shortly.

[Scott H]

That oxy stones sounds pretty interesting, are you setting it up like Paul Wicksteads one to oxygenate on output from counterflow chiller?

Be keen to see some piccy's

[Barry]

So I have a stainless T in the output of the CFC with an inline dial thermometer and male quick disconnect, the another T that quick disconnects onto the first T with the stone. So it's entirely optional, with either fitting a hose just QDs onto the output.

[Richard Loynes]

What diameter is the copper pipe you've used here?  I thinking of using 1/4 inch

[Scott H]

That's 15m of 1/2 in its oversized length wise I don't know how well the heat transfer would be if you used 1/4 reduced flow ect.

[Richard Loynes]

I was lookin at 6M of 1/4" with 1/2" supply with the intention of a steady sparge.

[Barry]

Welcome Graeme. Bloody ambitious of you, having paid my dues well and truly on a very ghetto system I can totally recommend avoiding it. Also I did only 2 batches of extract and partial mash before going all grain, there's no need to do a minimum number of shit kit and kilo beers before going the whole hog. Just jump right into the real thing.

Electricity however is another story. It will kill you if you don't get it right.

So unless you can get your own head around it, or get someone equally as enthusiastic and unqualified but with a little more practical nous, then I would employ an electrician and do it by the books.
Read my blog about my own build on this site, there's heaps of explanation and links to purchased parts. Bear mind that all my switchgear comes from China and even though it's specced for the correct voltage and current as the system is designed, none of it meets NZ standards and you need to make your own decisions as to how appropriate for you that might be. If it's not then buy a Grainfather or Braumeister.

If you're in Auckland I'm more than happy to share experience, but you must make the big safety decisions yourself.

Sorry if that sounds presumptuous or overbearing, there is so many people diving into electric brewing at the moment and I'm very cautious about offering advice. Some people should just buy off the shelf systems or hire qualified electricians.

[Scott H]

Yes Barry is correct. Safety is paramount. The only reason I chose to go electric is because I could do what was needed electrical wise myself. Where about a in the country are you Graeme?

[Scott H]

Awesome pic of you making your coil btw. Did it work out good?

[Peter Smith]

Awesome polish did you go conditioning wheel on angle grinder or sisal wheel or both!

Looking forward to hearing how you build out the kegs, weld less or welded or silver grazed/soldered

Welcome


Peter

[Peter Smith]

Mate that is serious dedication, you have the required patience to make a great brewer.

I have just ordered some polishing kit for angle grinder, will let you know how it goes, love the shinny bling.

 

[Peter Church]

Hi Graeme, welcome to the addiction, 

re your question on the plugs to use, if you don't want to go with the US style as per the electric brewery then you could try

http://www.hpm.com.au/Uploads/HPM%20plugs-bases-sockets&lamphol...

They have 20 and 25 amp panel mounted plug bases and plugs, 5500w elements would pull 23 amps, personally for heating I would go with the US style plugs and bases off amazon and get a 30 foot coil of flex from the same supplier.

I went with the US style plugs for the HLT and BK elements and installed one of the HPM 20 amp plug bases for one of the pump circuits to future proof it in case I decide to add a separate heat exchange later, I could run an additional 3kw through this if the HLT is .

This pump circuit is linked through the #2 PID, this pump circuit has 3 way switching manual/off/auto(with an auber timer/PID to control the auto) so that the pump can fire based of  temp and also shut off at a time or temp threshold. 

[Peter Smith]

I am going to use some PDL plugs and sockets from a recent comms room decommission... PDL are great but unbelievably expensive new....    If you know anyone pulling an old computer room apart ask them whats happening to the underfloor power points.   You could bring the output of the Wall mount brew control to a wall mount switch/plug box if there is no room in the box, just use a gland.  

Gives you another layer of isolation as well.