The bed settles, but the top is always covered. You don't want it to compress but be compact. The fly sparge setups I have seen are with some sort of shower types attachment that continually `sprinkles' water over the bed while it is running off. I have kettle sitting on the gas as I pour the wort in, that way I can get the flame on asap and it is pretty much boiling, by the time the sparge is finished. Otherwise I would probably wait 20-30 minutes, just for the boil to start.
Do you pour the 3 litres of sparge water in carefully - or just pour it in so it disturbs the grainbed again - and do you let it settle again or just run off ?
Sounds like you could be fly sparging but not with a continuous flow
Fly-Spargers - what sort of false bottom / screen are you using? I've just set up and have a braided hose. My concern is that this would promote channeling and not promote good extraction?
We use the old lid from a 40L pot (former brew kettle) which has had a couple of hundred little holes drilled through it and which fits nicely in the bottom of the hot water cylinder mashtun, with the curve at the bottom giving us a good little runoff space. We used to use braided hose in a 55L chillybin setup, but always batch sparged with that setup.
Permalink Reply by MrC on July 18, 2009 at 10:05am
I use a PVC manifold like Palmer recommends. I followed the instructions on HTB (apart from being PVC) and built it to fit perfectly in my cooler mash tun.